Complete used iPhone checklist. 9 steps to protect you from scammers and problematic devices.|
9 essential checks before buying a used iPhone - from remote to in-person
Buying a used iPhone without checking is a high-stakes gamble
The secondary Apple device market is full of risks: iCloud-locked devices, stolen phones with blacklisted IMEI, carrier-locked iPhones from the USA, corporate devices with MDM profiles. Each of these problems turns a purchase into a useless brick.
The good news - most problems can be detected before meeting the seller, simply by checking the IMEI. This checklist will guide you through all verification stages: from remote IMEI diagnostics to in-person device inspection.
Perform these checks before meeting the seller - you only need the IMEI
Ask the seller to send the IMEI before meeting. To get IMEI: dial *#06# on the device, check Settings → General → About, or look at the SIM tray / back cover. If the seller refuses to share the IMEI - that's a serious reason to walk away.
The most important check. If Find My iPhone is ON (FMI: ON), the device is tied to the owner's Apple ID. After reset, it will require the Apple ID password and become a "brick". Status Lost or Stolen means the device is reported.
The device IMEI may be on a carrier's blacklist or international GSMA database - if reported stolen or has unpaid installments. Such an iPhone won't work on cellular networks: "No Service".
Especially relevant for US iPhones - they are often locked to AT&T, T-Mobile, Verizon. A locked iPhone only works with one carrier's SIM and shows "SIM Not Supported" with other cards.
If remote checks passed - proceed to device inspection
Inspect the body for chips, dents, and signs of opening. Check the screws near the charging port - they should be identical, without signs of unscrewing. Check the liquid contact indicator in the SIM slot - red means water damage. Make sure all buttons (volume, power, mute switch) work properly.
Open Settings → Battery → Battery Health. "Maximum Capacity" shows battery wear. Above 85% is good. Below 80% means the iPhone will show warnings and throttle performance. Battery replacement costs extra.
Ask the seller to add your face (Face ID) or fingerprint (Touch ID) and test unlocking several times. Face ID / Touch ID cannot be repaired - if the module is broken, it cannot be fixed (only Apple replacement at significant cost). Also test both cameras, flash, speakers, and microphone (make a call).
On iPhone 15 and newer: Settings → General → About → Parts and Service History. This section shows if the screen, battery, camera, or other components were replaced. On older models, this info is available via GSX report.
GSX report - complete device history from Apple's internal system
GSX (Global Service Exchange) is Apple's internal service system. A GSX report contains complete device history: activation date, purchase country, repair history (Cases & Repairs), warranty status, AppleCare, technical info, and Chimaera/Demo status. It's the most comprehensive report available for any Apple device.
If you see any of these signs - walk away from the deal
Refuses to share IMEI before meeting or "doesn't know how to find it". If hiding the IMEI, there's something to hide: Blacklist, iCloud Lock, or Carrier Lock.
iPhone 30–50% below market price. Likely stolen, carrier-locked, or has a broken Face ID / Touch ID.
Seller refuses to sign out of Apple ID in front of you. The device may be tied to someone else's account - after reset you'll get a "brick".
iPhone is already factory reset. Seller can't show the device is unlinked from Apple ID. Ask them to activate it in front of you.
Missing original packaging isn't critical alone, but combined with other flags - cause for concern. Receipt confirms legal purchase.
IMEI on box, in settings, and via *#06# don't match. This means the logic board was replaced - the device underwent major repair or was assembled from parts.
Essential: IMEI (authenticity), iCloud Lock (Apple ID binding), Blacklist (blocklist), Carrier Lock (carrier). In person: physical inspection, battery, Face ID/Touch ID, cameras. For the full picture - GSX report.
Send IMEI to @ispyware_bot or use the check page. The bot will show iCloud, Find My, Blacklist, Carrier Lock, MDM, warranty, and device model.
Yes. You only need the IMEI to remotely check all critical locks. Request the IMEI from the seller and check via iSpy. This saves time and travel costs.
Suspiciously low price, refusal to share IMEI, refusal to disable Find My, device on "Hello" screen without showing iCloud is unlinked, no box or receipt.
Don't risk it - check the IMEI before buying